audrey and i took a trip to india for 11 days during her break at insead. we wanted to start out in bombay/mumbai and then head east to chennai and work our way south to kerala. 11 days is hardly enough time to really take in the country, but we did what we could with the time allotted.
it’s hard to sum up the india experience in a single post so i’ll just go through it day by day and reference my journal. in a word, it was, incredible.
but that’s what i was hoping for.
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smoke and smog greet us.
we landed in mumbai around 10am and ran into some good luck right off the plane. while talking to the woman at the prepaid taxi stand, another passenger from the plane came up and kind of took over the conversation in hindi. he asked where we were going then offered to share the taxi with us since thane was on the way to where he was headed. after looking at audrey and getting the ‘uh, i guess‘ look, we went for it. i was much more willing to jump into quick-trust situations on the trip than she was, but it didn’t take long for her to warm to a similar attitude. after all we were going to be couchsurfing with someone i had only talked to once on skype incl. a few email exchanges.
running into anand (the guy we shared the cab with) turned out great. he found our cab, used a local telephone to call josiah (the guy we were crashing with) and get directions, then offered to buy us some tea. when we got to thane he ended up paying for the cab ride and waiting for us while josiah picked us up. the whole experience was extremely kind and an easy transition into the country.
hung out for a bit and chatted with our host and his gf. both of whom were incredibly kind and interesting to talk to. i can’t stop shouting praises about couchsurfing. once we were caught up we went exploring around the city.
but first a snack. i believe this is a bombay special, and i think called ‘varapow’. but i’m not certain. it’s like a fried masala stuffed in a hawaiian roll with some relish slathered inside. seriously magically delicious. the texture was soft, smooth, crunchy, squishy. sooo good.. i didn’t realize how great they were till i started craving them when we left mumbai.

varapow!
it took about an hour to get from thane to downtown by cab. you have to first grab a rickshaw to the toll bridge then pick up a cab from there. the cabbies didn’t speak much english but we managed to explain where we wanted to go. in thane/mumbai they all meter their fares by the km and the trip downtown was around375Rs (under 10$). 40Rs is 1$.

typical 3 wheeler rickshaw (tuk-tuk).

typical india traffic.
the traffic is really something in india. especially in mumbai. you learn quick that you need to be extremely aggressive to make it through those streets alive. everyone honks, and it’s actually encouraged when driving around bigger trucks so they know you’re there. the lanes aren’t really adhered to, but it works in an organized chaos fashion. everyone driving knows the system as well as their vehicle. it made me realize that when you drive your car/rick like these guys do, you get a concrete understanding of your turning radius, acceleration, stopping distance, etc that people who aren’t used to driving like this never truly experience. perhaps that’s why there are so many accidents in l.a. sitting in traffic has numbed everyone to the experience of driving that they barely know how to handle their own vehicle when it comes to avoiding a collision.
i thought the chaos was a lot of fun.

the bombay ambassador taxi. aka, fiat premier padmini. not super comfy, but lots of charm to make up for it.

lots of cute 3 wheelers.
we ended up in churchgate, then walking along marine drive next to the water, down to chowpatti beach and then drove up to malabar hill to check out the ‘hanging gardens.’ rather bare and not really impressive but there were a lot of people just ‘hanging’ out. so maybe it was a misunderstanding in translation..

walking along the ledge at marine drive.

the concrete beach stained with betelnut.

ordering some food at the chowpatti beach stands.

bhelpuri snack. crispy, sweet, tangy from some orange zest. cilantro and dried bananas. it was good, but not great.

playing at chowpatti beach.
it was getting dark so we went to see the haji ali mosque around sunset. the crowds, the heat, the colors, the beggars, the beauty, the trash, the goats, the kids, the smells.
i bought a handkerchief for 10Rs. i should’ve bought more.

popular spot on a sunday. this is just past the military controlled metal detectors.

shops hug the left, a ledge leading to rocks, trash, goats and water on the right. then a long stream of people moving to and form the mosque.

hanging around in the debris.

chasing after a plastic bag.


inside the mosque. the guys like audrey.

standing outside the mosque looking back towards the way we came.

sunset.
found a taxi, took it back to thane and got ready for dinner with josiah. he took us to a place (and i’m cursing myself for not getting the name of it) that was tucked in the corner of a mall near his house. the food was really incredible. some of the best indian i’ve ever had.

a skewer of onion, peppers and cottage cheese. holy f*$%ing tasty batman!

a clay pot of basmati rice sealed with bread dough.

tada! it’s delicious!

turns out dil se is ‘for free.’ more yum though i was so busy eating i didn’t get the proper name for a lot of these dishes.

didn’t have enough room in my tummy to finish the jelebi. such a shame.
good food is always, always, always, a great way to finish the day.